First time
2 daysThe landmark sights, at the right pace.
Day 1
Kalemegdan Fortress and the Victor
The citadel on the spur where the Sava meets the Danube, destroyed and rebuilt by Romans, Ottomans and Austrians: walls, cannon, a huge park and the Victor statue looking out over the confluence. The park is free to enter and it's the place to be at sunset.
Church of Saint Sava
One of the largest Orthodox churches in the world, begun in 1935 and only finished in its mosaics in recent years: the gold-covered interior dome is the showpiece, and the crypt below is another fully decorated space. Free entry.
Knez Mihailova and Republic Square
The pedestrian avenue linking Republic Square to the fortress, lined with eclectic buildings, bookshops and historic cafés: it's the city's thermometer, where demonstrations, buskers and the evening stroll all cross paths.
Day 2
Nikola Tesla Museum
The museum that holds the inventor's archive and his ashes, in a gilded urn. Visits are by guided tour only, about 45 minutes, including a live demonstration with the Tesla coil: 800 dinars in English, cash in dinars only, departures every hour.
Museum of Yugoslavia and the House of Flowers
The complex that gathers the memory of the vanished country and Tito's tomb, among Youth Day relay batons and gifts received from half the world. Ticket 800 dinars (400 for students); closed Mondays, free entry on the first Thursday of the month.
Skadarlija
The cobbled street of the late-19th-century bohemians, now lined with kafanas serving live music, ćevapi and rakija into the small hours. It's touristy and the prices show it, but on summer evenings the atmosphere is still the real thing.






