Santorini, Cyclades: what to see, scams and budget

15verified places · 10 gems off the guidebooks
6things to know first
150-250€Budget per day
May, late September-OctoberWhen to go · balanced weather and crowds

What to see in Santorini?

15 places checked against the sources. The 10 gems the guidebooks skip come first, then the classics: every card has the hard facts on top and the why below.

On the map: yellow pins are the gems. Tap a pin to jump to its card.

✦ Hidden gems · off the standard guides

Museums✦ gem

Akrotiri archaeological site

Ticket: €20
Hours: 08:30-15:30

It costs 20 € full and 10 € reduced. A widespread belief needs correcting here: the ticket does not cover the island's other sites, which have their own, Ancient Thera at 10 € and 5 € and the Archaeological Museum of Thera the same, so budget for them separately. It is under a roof, which makes it the right visit for the hot hours. On Monday and Thursday it keeps short hours, 08:30-15:30, while on other days it runs to the evening with a last entry that shortens as the season goes on: 19:00 in the first half of September, 17:30 in the second half of October. It is free on 6 March, 18 April, 18 May, the last weekend of September, 28 October and every first Sunday from November to March.

Other✦ gem

Pyrgos and the interior

On foot: 15 min

It is a village perched inland, away from the caldera, and that is exactly why the cruise crowds never see it: quiet lanes, a Venetian castle at the top and a view that turns through 360 degrees instead of only facing west. You walk up from the square in 15 minutes. With the surrounding wineries it is the half day that redeems a holiday spent queuing in Oia.

Photo: Bernard Gagnon, Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 3.0)

Food✦ gem

Assyrtiko wineries

Assyrtiko grows on vines trained as baskets, the kouloura: the canes are woven into a coil on the ground so the wind cannot break them and so dew condenses inside, since it almost never rains here. The technique exists almost nowhere else. The wineries lie between Megalochori, Pyrgos and Akrotiri and pour dry Assyrtiko and sweet Vinsanto from sun-dried grapes: many receive by appointment rather than keeping open doors.

Monuments✦ gem

Ancient Thera (Mesa Vouno)

Ticket: €10
Hours: 08:30-15:30
Closed: Wednesday

It is the ancient city on top of Mesa Vouno, 369 metres above the sea, founded by Spartan colonists in the 8th century BC and lived in until Byzantine times. The ticket costs 10 € full and 5 € reduced, it opens 08:30-15:30 and closes on Wednesday: it is a morning site, not an afternoon one, and not by choice. You get there by car on a narrow switchback road or on foot from Kamari, uphill and without shade. Going round it takes about 90 minutes. From up there you see both coasts of the island at once.

Nature✦ gem

Skaros Rock (Imerovigli)

Duration: 30 min

It is the headland that juts into the caldera in front of Imerovigli, and in the 13th century it held the island's most important fortress, later the Venetian capital, crumbled into the sea by earthquakes and eruptions. Today the rock remains and, behind it, a white chapel at the water's edge. The walk is free, takes about 30 minutes and ends on a narrow, exposed path: it is not for anyone who dislikes heights, and in a strong wind it is not done at all.

Photo: Zde, Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)

Other✦ gem

Amoudi Bay

Steps: 300

It is the fishing harbour 300 steps below Oia, wedged among red rocks, with fish tavernas at the water's edge. You go down on foot or by mule, and the climb back is the part nobody factors in: in the heat you take a taxi from the top. The sunset light reaches here as it does in Oia, but sitting at a table rather than standing in a crowd.

Photo: Sam Holt, Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)

Other✦ gem

Emporio

It is the largest village on the island, at the foot of Profitis Ilias, and it has a kasteli, a fortified medieval core of houses packed together so that they form the defensive wall themselves. You walk it through a maze that genuinely disorients. It is minutes from the beaches of Perissa and Perivolos, and the visitors are far fewer than on the caldera: it is where you eat and sleep for half the money.

Photo: Norbert Nagel, Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 3.0)

Museums✦ gem

Tomato Industrial Museum (Vlychada)

Ticket: €12
Hours: 10:00-18:00

It is a tomato concentrate factory from 1945 turned into a museum, with the original machinery and the workers' testimony: it tells the industry that fed the island before tourism arrived, when Santorini exported tomatoes rather than letting villas. The ticket costs 12 € full and 10 € reduced for students, over-65s and children from 8 to 18, free under 7. It opens Tuesday to Sunday 10:00-18:00 and only from April to November, so anyone coming out of season finds it shut, and Mondays too. It stands beside the lunar beach of Vlychada, on the far side of the island from the caldera, and it is the face of Santorini the cruises do not touch.

Food✦ gem

Santorini white eggplant

It is a local variety grown on volcanic soil, sweeter than the common aubergine and with few seeds, and the practical trait is that it absorbs almost no oil when fried, so fried it does not sit heavy. In the tavernas it appears as 'melitzana lefki', fried or baked. Like the cherry tomatoes and the fava it is an island product rather than an import: it is how you eat Santorinian without paying for fish.

Food✦ gem

Chlorotyri, the island's fresh cheese

It is a fresh goat's cheese, creamy and slightly sharp, made in tiny quantities by a handful of producers: it is not in the supermarkets and not in every taverna either. It is eaten on its own or grated over the cherry tomato salad, where it takes the place of feta. Finding it is a small treasure hunt, and the question is asked in the inland tavernas rather than the ones on the caldera.

The classics

Nature

Nea Kameni and the hot springs

It is the volcanic islet in the middle of the caldera, reachable only on boat tours from Fira or Athinios. The climb to the craters is 20 or 30 minutes over black rock, with no shade at all and closed shoes compulsory, because the stone cuts. A swim in the tepid sulphurous water off Palea Kameni is nearly always attached: the water is rust-coloured and stains swimwear, so do not wear the good costume.

Photo: Bernard Gagnon, Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 3.0)

Beaches

Volcanic beaches (Red Beach, Perissa, Kamari)

The beaches are not white sand: they are volcanic pebble and black or red sand, and pebble heats up far more than sand, so sandals genuinely matter. Red Beach is the most photogenic and also the one with the landslide warning sign at the entrance, which is not decorative. Perissa and Kamari are long, serviced and easy, and they sit on the opposite side of the island from the caldera.

Other

Oia and the sunset

Steps: 300

Sunset from the Oia castle is the image that brings everyone here, and that is why the hour before sunset is the worst of the day: you stand, pressed in, and the crush starts two hours ahead. The caldera-edge path and the little harbour of Amoudi, 300 steps below, give the same light without the scrum. The village by day is empty by comparison, and the blue-domed houses are private: they are looked at from outside.

Other

Fira and the caldera-rim path

It is the island capital and the point where the caldera-rim walk to Firostefani and Imerovigli begins: about 3 km, almost all of it level, done in a good 60 minutes with the drop beside you. It costs nothing and it is the best thing on the island that needs no ticket. From the centre the cable car also drops to the old port, the alternative to the steps the mules use: it costs 10 € each way for an adult, 5 € for a child and another 5 € for each piece of luggage, so down and back up for two people comes to 40 €.

Photo: Emanuela Meme Giudic…, Wikimedia Commons (CC BY 3.0)

Food

Cherry tomatoes, fava and volcanic cuisine

Volcanic soil and no rain give small, concentrated produce: Santorini's cherry tomatoes are tiny and very sweet, the fava is a purée of grass pea rather than broad bean despite the name, and tomatokeftedes are tomato fritters. These are the dishes that cost little in the tavernas and say something about the island, unlike the fish, which here is mostly imported and dear.

How to plan your days in Santorini?

Three routes for different travel styles, built only from this dossier's verified places. Realistic pace: 2-3 stops a day.

First time

2 days

The landmark sights, at the right pace.

Day 1

Oia and the sunset
Sunset from the Oia castle is the image that brings everyone here, and that is why the hour before sunset is the worst of the day: you stand, pressed in, and the crush starts two hours ahead. The caldera-edge path and the little harbour of Amoudi, 300 steps below, give the same light without the scrum. The village by day is empty by comparison, and the blue-domed houses are private: they are looked at from outside.
Fira and the caldera-rim path
It is the island capital and the point where the caldera-rim walk to Firostefani and Imerovigli begins: about 3 km, almost all of it level, done in a good 60 minutes with the drop beside you. It costs nothing and it is the best thing on the island that needs no ticket. From the centre the cable car also drops to the old port, the alternative to the steps the mules use: it costs 10 € each way for an adult, 5 € for a child and another 5 € for each piece of luggage, so down and back up for two people comes to 40 €.
Volcanic beaches (Red Beach, Perissa, Kamari)
The beaches are not white sand: they are volcanic pebble and black or red sand, and pebble heats up far more than sand, so sandals genuinely matter. Red Beach is the most photogenic and also the one with the landslide warning sign at the entrance, which is not decorative. Perissa and Kamari are long, serviced and easy, and they sit on the opposite side of the island from the caldera.

Day 2

Cherry tomatoes, fava and volcanic cuisine
Volcanic soil and no rain give small, concentrated produce: Santorini's cherry tomatoes are tiny and very sweet, the fava is a purée of grass pea rather than broad bean despite the name, and tomatokeftedes are tomato fritters. These are the dishes that cost little in the tavernas and say something about the island, unlike the fish, which here is mostly imported and dear.
Nea Kameni and the hot springs
It is the volcanic islet in the middle of the caldera, reachable only on boat tours from Fira or Athinios. The climb to the craters is 20 or 30 minutes over black rock, with no shade at all and closed shoes compulsory, because the stone cuts. A swim in the tepid sulphurous water off Palea Kameni is nearly always attached: the water is rust-coloured and stains swimwear, so do not wear the good costume.

Off the beaten path

2 days

Hidden gems away from the usual circuits.

Day 1

Akrotiri archaeological site✦ hidden gem
It costs 20 € full and 10 € reduced. A widespread belief needs correcting here: the ticket does not cover the island's other sites, which have their own, Ancient Thera at 10 € and 5 € and the Archaeological Museum of Thera the same, so budget for them separately. It is under a roof, which makes it the right visit for the hot hours. On Monday and Thursday it keeps short hours, 08:30-15:30, while on other days it runs to the evening with a last entry that shortens as the season goes on: 19:00 in the first half of September, 17:30 in the second half of October. It is free on 6 March, 18 April, 18 May, the last weekend of September, 28 October and every first Sunday from November to March.
Pyrgos and the interior✦ hidden gem
It is a village perched inland, away from the caldera, and that is exactly why the cruise crowds never see it: quiet lanes, a Venetian castle at the top and a view that turns through 360 degrees instead of only facing west. You walk up from the square in 15 minutes. With the surrounding wineries it is the half day that redeems a holiday spent queuing in Oia.
Assyrtiko wineries✦ hidden gem
Assyrtiko grows on vines trained as baskets, the kouloura: the canes are woven into a coil on the ground so the wind cannot break them and so dew condenses inside, since it almost never rains here. The technique exists almost nowhere else. The wineries lie between Megalochori, Pyrgos and Akrotiri and pour dry Assyrtiko and sweet Vinsanto from sun-dried grapes: many receive by appointment rather than keeping open doors.

Day 2

Ancient Thera (Mesa Vouno)✦ hidden gem
It is the ancient city on top of Mesa Vouno, 369 metres above the sea, founded by Spartan colonists in the 8th century BC and lived in until Byzantine times. The ticket costs 10 € full and 5 € reduced, it opens 08:30-15:30 and closes on Wednesday: it is a morning site, not an afternoon one, and not by choice. You get there by car on a narrow switchback road or on foot from Kamari, uphill and without shade. Going round it takes about 90 minutes. From up there you see both coasts of the island at once.
Skaros Rock (Imerovigli)✦ hidden gem
It is the headland that juts into the caldera in front of Imerovigli, and in the 13th century it held the island's most important fortress, later the Venetian capital, crumbled into the sea by earthquakes and eruptions. Today the rock remains and, behind it, a white chapel at the water's edge. The walk is free, takes about 30 minutes and ends on a narrow, exposed path: it is not for anyone who dislikes heights, and in a strong wind it is not done at all.

Food & markets

2 days

Eat and drink where locals actually go.

Day 1

Assyrtiko wineries✦ hidden gem
Assyrtiko grows on vines trained as baskets, the kouloura: the canes are woven into a coil on the ground so the wind cannot break them and so dew condenses inside, since it almost never rains here. The technique exists almost nowhere else. The wineries lie between Megalochori, Pyrgos and Akrotiri and pour dry Assyrtiko and sweet Vinsanto from sun-dried grapes: many receive by appointment rather than keeping open doors.
Cherry tomatoes, fava and volcanic cuisine
Volcanic soil and no rain give small, concentrated produce: Santorini's cherry tomatoes are tiny and very sweet, the fava is a purée of grass pea rather than broad bean despite the name, and tomatokeftedes are tomato fritters. These are the dishes that cost little in the tavernas and say something about the island, unlike the fish, which here is mostly imported and dear.

Day 2

Santorini white eggplant✦ hidden gem
It is a local variety grown on volcanic soil, sweeter than the common aubergine and with few seeds, and the practical trait is that it absorbs almost no oil when fried, so fried it does not sit heavy. In the tavernas it appears as 'melitzana lefki', fried or baked. Like the cherry tomatoes and the fava it is an island product rather than an import: it is how you eat Santorinian without paying for fish.
Chlorotyri, the island's fresh cheese✦ hidden gem
It is a fresh goat's cheese, creamy and slightly sharp, made in tiny quantities by a handful of producers: it is not in the supermarkets and not in every taverna either. It is eaten on its own or grated over the cherry tomato salad, where it takes the place of feta. Finding it is a small treasure hunt, and the question is asked in the inland tavernas rather than the ones on the caldera.

🧭

Build your itinerary

Tell us how many days you're staying and in which month: we'll compose an itinerary from this dossier's verified places, with notes about the period.

Days of stayPeriod

Your itinerary

Day 1

Oia and the sunset
Sunset from the Oia castle is the image that brings everyone here, and that is why the hour before sunset is the worst of the day: you stand, pressed in, and the crush starts two hours ahead. The caldera-edge path and the little harbour of Amoudi, 300 steps below, give the same light without the scrum. The village by day is empty by comparison, and the blue-domed houses are private: they are looked at from outside.
Fira and the caldera-rim path
It is the island capital and the point where the caldera-rim walk to Firostefani and Imerovigli begins: about 3 km, almost all of it level, done in a good 60 minutes with the drop beside you. It costs nothing and it is the best thing on the island that needs no ticket. From the centre the cable car also drops to the old port, the alternative to the steps the mules use: it costs 10 € each way for an adult, 5 € for a child and another 5 € for each piece of luggage, so down and back up for two people comes to 40 €.
Cherry tomatoes, fava and volcanic cuisine
Volcanic soil and no rain give small, concentrated produce: Santorini's cherry tomatoes are tiny and very sweet, the fava is a purée of grass pea rather than broad bean despite the name, and tomatokeftedes are tomato fritters. These are the dishes that cost little in the tavernas and say something about the island, unlike the fish, which here is mostly imported and dear.

Day 2

Nea Kameni and the hot springs
It is the volcanic islet in the middle of the caldera, reachable only on boat tours from Fira or Athinios. The climb to the craters is 20 or 30 minutes over black rock, with no shade at all and closed shoes compulsory, because the stone cuts. A swim in the tepid sulphurous water off Palea Kameni is nearly always attached: the water is rust-coloured and stains swimwear, so do not wear the good costume.
Volcanic beaches (Red Beach, Perissa, Kamari)
The beaches are not white sand: they are volcanic pebble and black or red sand, and pebble heats up far more than sand, so sandals genuinely matter. Red Beach is the most photogenic and also the one with the landslide warning sign at the entrance, which is not decorative. Perissa and Kamari are long, serviced and easy, and they sit on the opposite side of the island from the caldera.
Assyrtiko wineries✦ hidden gem
Assyrtiko grows on vines trained as baskets, the kouloura: the canes are woven into a coil on the ground so the wind cannot break them and so dew condenses inside, since it almost never rains here. The technique exists almost nowhere else. The wineries lie between Megalochori, Pyrgos and Akrotiri and pour dry Assyrtiko and sweet Vinsanto from sun-dried grapes: many receive by appointment rather than keeping open doors.

Day 3

Akrotiri archaeological site✦ hidden gem
It costs 20 € full and 10 € reduced. A widespread belief needs correcting here: the ticket does not cover the island's other sites, which have their own, Ancient Thera at 10 € and 5 € and the Archaeological Museum of Thera the same, so budget for them separately. It is under a roof, which makes it the right visit for the hot hours. On Monday and Thursday it keeps short hours, 08:30-15:30, while on other days it runs to the evening with a last entry that shortens as the season goes on: 19:00 in the first half of September, 17:30 in the second half of October. It is free on 6 March, 18 April, 18 May, the last weekend of September, 28 October and every first Sunday from November to March.
Pyrgos and the interior✦ hidden gem
It is a village perched inland, away from the caldera, and that is exactly why the cruise crowds never see it: quiet lanes, a Venetian castle at the top and a view that turns through 360 degrees instead of only facing west. You walk up from the square in 15 minutes. With the surrounding wineries it is the half day that redeems a holiday spent queuing in Oia.
Santorini white eggplant✦ hidden gem
It is a local variety grown on volcanic soil, sweeter than the common aubergine and with few seeds, and the practical trait is that it absorbs almost no oil when fried, so fried it does not sit heavy. In the tavernas it appears as 'melitzana lefki', fried or baked. Like the cherry tomatoes and the fava it is an island product rather than an import: it is how you eat Santorinian without paying for fish.

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What to know before going to Santorini?

Recurring scams and local rules worth knowing before you arrive.

⚠ Scams to know

The mule/donkey ride up the old port's 600 steps

verified

The animals work in the sun carrying often-too-heavy tourists up steep steps: animal-welfare organizations advise against it and the Greek authorities have introduced weight limits and protections.

How to avoid it: Go up to Fira by cable car or on foot. If you still want to see the mules, photograph them but don't ride them.

Source

Planning everything during cruise-disembarkation hours

verified

Between mid-morning and early afternoon, Fira and Oia fill with cruise passengers and the caldera-rim paths become a jam. The daily cap has reduced the peaks but not eliminated them.

How to avoid it: Use the early morning and the evening for the caldera-rim villages, and dedicate the middle of the day to beaches, wineries or the Akrotiri site.

Source

Expecting postcard white-sand beaches

medium confidence

Santorini sits on the remains of a volcano and the sand colour depends on which geological layer is exposed: there are beaches of solidified lava in black, red and white, not the pale sand of the other Cyclades. Dark sand absorbs heat, so by the middle of the day it genuinely burns and the water feels warmer. Anyone arriving with Naxos in mind is caught out.

How to avoid it: Budget for sandals to walk on black sand in the middle hours, and pick the beach for the colour you want to see: Perissa and Kamari for black, Red Beach for red.

Source

⚖ Laws & penalties

Weight limits and protections for pack mules

low riskverified

Since 2018 Greece has updated its animal-welfare rules (an amendment to law 1197/81): mules, donkeys and horses may not carry a load exceeding 100 kg or a fifth of their own weight. In practice, people over 100 kg cannot ride up the cliff by mule. It's not a penalty for the tourist, but it's why many operators urge people not to ride them.

Source

Daily cap on cruise passengers and cruise landing tax

low riskmedium confidence

To counter overtourism, since 2025 Santorini has applied a cap of 8,000 cruise passengers a day, managed with arrival slots by the Thira Municipal Port Fund, and a landing tax for cruise passengers (about €20 per person in the high-season months). It concerns those arriving by cruise ship, not those staying overnight on the island.

Source

Greek national tourist tax (climate resilience fee) in Santorini

low riskverified

Across Greece you pay the "telos anthektikotitas", per room or apartment per night and not per person, since 1 January 2025 and unchanged in 2026: from April to October €2 in 1- and 2-star hotels and rented rooms, €5 in 3-star, €10 in 4-star, €15 in 5-star hotels and villas; in short lets €8 (€15 for houses over 80 sq m); from November to March it drops to €0.50 / €1.50 / €3 / €4 and to €2 in short lets (€4 for large houses). No night limit, paid at the property and almost always excluded from the price booked online. In Santorini, cruise passengers also pay the €20 high-season landing fee.

Source

What happens in Santorini through the year?

Hover over a month on the timeline for details.

How much do you spend in Santorini, and when to go?

Jan

Feb

Mar

Apr

May

Jun

Jul

Aug

Sep

Oct

Nov

Dec

60-90€

90-150€

150-250€

90-150€

60-90€

low60-90€per day
mid90-150€per day
high150-250€per day

When it works best, by type of trip

Balanced weather and crowdsMay, late September-October

The sea still enjoyable, warm but not scorching days and fewer cruise ships than at the height of summer.

Sea and nightlifeJune-August

Warm water, everything open and perfect sunsets, but also the peak of crowds, prices and heat.

Budget and quietNovember-March

A quiet island and low rates, but many hotels, tavernas and tours close and the weather can be windy and unstable.

Rough estimate (lodging + meals + local transport), not a precise verified source.

✦

Did you know... To protect the vines from the wind and gather moisture, farmers grow the vineyards in a basket shape (kouloura) resting on the ground: from this comes Assyrtiko, the island's typical mineral white wine.

How to get to Santorini and around?

No car neededThe island is small but the roads are narrow, busy and with scarce parking in Fira and Oia in high season. A rental car or scooter helps reach the beaches and interior, but for the caldera-rim villages it's often more practical to use the bus or a taxi than to hunt for parking.

The KTEL buses connect Fira (the central hub) with Oia, the beaches (Perissa, Kamari), Akrotiri and the port: €2.20 for Oia, Kamari and the airport, €2.70 for Perissa and Athinios port (KTEL price list of 19 May 2026, +25% at night, cash only on board), with crowded services in high season. Taxis are few and run out fast at peak times; it's best to book them. From the old port (Mesa Gialos) to Fira you go up by cable car, on foot or (not recommended) by mule.

For the Oia sunset, arrive at least an hour ahead or move to a side viewpoint to avoid the worst crush.
The Fira-old port cable car costs about €10 each way and has long queues when ships are anchored: factor it into your timing.
Book a car/scooter and taxis in advance in July-August: availability runs out and prices rise.
If you arrive by cruise, check the port's time-slot system: disembarkations are capped by the daily limit.

Is Santorini safe?

⚠ Areas to avoid

Santorini is very safe for visitors; there are no areas to avoid. The real risks are physical: cliff edges and low railings on the caldera, unpaved paths and the active landslide above Red Beach.

Good to know

On the caldera rim watch out for steps, terraces and low railings, especially at sunset in the crowd and with children.
Red Beach is subject to rockfalls: respect the signs and don't linger under the unstable walls.
Only rent a scooter with experience: narrow roads, gravel and traffic cause many accidents among tourists.
The single emergency number in Greece: 112.

Source

✦

Did you know... Since 2025 Santorini has applied a cap of about 8,000 cruise passengers a day: on past peak days as many as 17,000 could disembark in a few hours.

Frequently asked questions about Santorini

Short answers drawn from the verified data of this dossier: details and sources are in the sections above.

How much does a day in Santorini cost?

Season low (November-March): 60-90€ per day; Season mid (April-May, October): 90-150€ per day; Season high (June-September): 150-250€ per day.

When to go to Santorini?

Balanced weather and crowds: May, late September-October. The sea still enjoyable, warm but not scorching days and fewer cruise ships than at the height of summer. Sea and nightlife: June-August. Warm water, everything open and perfect sunsets, but also the peak of crowds, prices and heat. Budget and quiet: November-March. A quiet island and low rates, but many hotels, tavernas and tours close and the weather can be windy and unstable.

Is Santorini safe?

Santorini is very safe for visitors; there are no areas to avoid. The real risks are physical: cliff edges and low railings on the caldera, unpaved paths and the active landslide above Red Beach. On the caldera rim watch out for steps, terraces and low railings, especially at sunset in the crowd and with children.

Do you need a car in Santorini?

No. The island is small but the roads are narrow, busy and with scarce parking in Fira and Oia in high season. A rental car or scooter helps reach the beaches and interior, but for the caldera-rim villages it's often more practical to use the bus or a taxi than to hunt for parking.

How do you get to Santorini?

Which hidden gems to see in Santorini, off the guidebooks?

Akrotiri archaeological site, Pyrgos and the interior, Assyrtiko wineries, Ancient Thera (Mesa Vouno), Skaros Rock (Imerovigli), Amoudi Bay, Emporio, Tomato Industrial Museum (Vlychada), Santorini white eggplant, Chlorotyri, the island's fresh cheese.

Which scams to avoid in Santorini?

The mule/donkey ride up the old port's 600 steps; Planning everything during cruise-disembarkation hours; Expecting postcard white-sand beaches.

Sources

6 sources cited

Every source below was opened and read, not just cited. Entries that didn't hold up were downgraded to "low confidence" or dropped, not presented as certain.

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