First time
2 daysThe landmark sights, at the right pace.
Day 1
Sasso Caveoso
The oldest and most scenic of the two cave districts, with the caves stepping down towards the ravine. It's the 'purest', least restored Matera, where you still understand how people lived in the rock.
Sasso Barisano
The other Sassi district, more refined with carved portals and today full of stone hotels and restaurants carved into the caves: the city's 'risen' face.
Cathedral of the Madonna della Bruna
The 13th-century Romanesque duomo on the highest point of the Civita, between the two Sassi: inside, behind the baroque dress, medieval frescoes and the 16th-century stone nativity. From the churchyard, a full view over the Sasso Barisano.
Day 2
Casa Grotta in the Sassi
A cave-dwelling set up as it was before the relocation, with the stable next to the bed: the most direct way to understand what the 'national shame' really was.
Matera PGI bread
A durum-wheat bread with yellow crumb, a thick crust and a horn shape, traditionally baked in a wood-fired oven: it keeps for days and has a protected designation. Still bought in the historic bakeries of the centre.
Cialledda
Matera's stale-bread salad with tomatoes, onion, olives and oregano (cold in summer, warm in winter): the peasant way of never wasting the PGI bread, today the flagship dish of the Sassi trattorias.






