Hamburg, Germany

Day 1

• Speicherstadt

  The maze of red-brick warehouses on the canals, a UNESCO site: by day for the neo-Gothic facades reflected in the water, in the evening for the lighting that makes it almost fairy-tale-like. It houses museums and the Miniatur Wunderland.

• Elbphilharmonie and the Plaza

  The spectacular glass concert hall above an old port warehouse. The 'Plaza' panoramic terrace at 37 m offers a 360° view over the port and is accessible (usually free with a timed entry ticket).

• Miniatur Wunderland

  In the Speicherstadt, the world's largest model railway: whole regions, working airports and miniature cities. A much-loved attraction for families and the curious; booking recommended.

Day 2

• St. Pauli Fischmarkt

  The Sunday fish market at dawn, since 1703: criers, stalls, live music in the Fischauktionshalle and the most genuine Hamburg, to experience early in the morning.

• Reeperbahn and St. Pauli

  The 'sinful mile', the heart of German nightlife: clubs, theatres, music venues and Beatles history. Lively and rough-and-ready, to explore knowing it's also a red-light area.

• Alster lakes

  The two Alster basins (Binnenalster and Außenalster) in the city centre: walks, sailing and rowing boats steps from the town hall. Hamburg's genteel, relaxed face.

Day 1

• Port and Landungsbrücken✦ hidden gem

  Europe's second-largest port, with the Landungsbrücken piers from which the boats leave. Taking a public ferry (e.g. line 62) is the cheapest way to do a 'mini cruise' of the port.

• Franzbrötchen✦ hidden gem

  The cinnamon pastry that exists only here, the croissant's flattened cousin: every Hamburg bakery turns them out from the morning, and it's the local breakfast ritual. Almost impossible to find outside the city.

Day 2

• Labskaus✦ hidden gem

  The sailors' dish: a pink mash of corned beef, potatoes and beetroot, served with a fried egg, rollmops and gherkins. It looks odd, but dockers sailed on it for centuries: try it in the historic taverns of the port.

• Fischbrötchen

  The fish sandwich is Hamburg's defining street food: marinated herring (matjes or Bismarck) or smoked salmon with onion and gherkins, bought at the Landungsbrücken kiosks or at the Sunday-morning Fischmarkt.

Day 1

• Fischbrötchen

  The fish sandwich is Hamburg's defining street food: marinated herring (matjes or Bismarck) or smoked salmon with onion and gherkins, bought at the Landungsbrücken kiosks or at the Sunday-morning Fischmarkt.

• Franzbrötchen✦ hidden gem

  The cinnamon pastry that exists only here, the croissant's flattened cousin: every Hamburg bakery turns them out from the morning, and it's the local breakfast ritual. Almost impossible to find outside the city.

• Labskaus✦ hidden gem

  The sailors' dish: a pink mash of corned beef, potatoes and beetroot, served with a fried egg, rollmops and gherkins. It looks odd, but dockers sailed on it for centuries: try it in the historic taverns of the port.

Day 2

• St. Pauli Fischmarkt

  The Sunday fish market at dawn, since 1703: criers, stalls, live music in the Fischauktionshalle and the most genuine Hamburg, to experience early in the morning.

• Reeperbahn and St. Pauli

  The 'sinful mile', the heart of German nightlife: clubs, theatres, music venues and Beatles history. Lively and rough-and-ready, to explore knowing it's also a red-light area.