Córdoba, Andalusia
Photo: Alvaro.vinuela.carnicero, Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)
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Córdoba, Andalusia

A forest of 850 columns and red-and-white striped arches, with a cathedral built inside: Córdoba's Mezquita is one of the most astonishing buildings in Europe. Outside, in May, the people of Córdoba throw open their flower-filled private courtyards. Come in spring: in summer it hits 45°C here.

✓ Sources checked on 9 October 202611 sources cited

What to see in Córdoba?

12 places checked against the sources. The 5 gems the guidebooks skip come first, then the classics: every card has the hard facts on top and the why below.

On the map: yellow pins are the gems. Tap a pin to jump to its card.

✦ Hidden gems · off the standard guides

Calleja de las Flores and the patios
Other✦ gem

Calleja de las Flores and the patios

The lane is photographed early in the morning, before it becomes single file: it is barely a metre wide and frames the Mezquita bell tower at the end. On the patios, the precision that matters: the festival is in May and lasts two weeks, but the courtyards open to the public are the ones entered in the competition, not every one visible from the street, and the queue at the most photographed is long. Outside May, the only place to see a dozen together is the Palacio de Viana.

Photo: Jennifer Morrow from San Francisco, Wikimedia Commons (CC BY 2.0)
Medina Azahara
Museums✦ gem

Medina Azahara

Distance
8 km

It is 8 km from the city and reached by shuttle bus or car: it is not a walk from the centre. The thing to know before booking: for EU citizens entry is free, for everyone else it is paid. The museum at the entrance comes before the ruins and cannot be skipped, because the shuttles leave from there. Allow at least 2 hours including the transfer, and it is an open archaeological site: in July and August do it at opening or not at all.

Photo: Pitxiquin, Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)
Palacio de Viana
Museums✦ gem

Palacio de Viana

Ticket
€9
Hours
10:00-19:00
Closed
Monday

This is how to see the patios without waiting for May: twelve courtyards, each different, inside a palace north of the centre where almost nobody goes. It opens Tuesday to Saturday 10am-7pm and Sunday until 3pm, closed Mondays; in July and August the hours shorten to Tuesday-Sunday 9am-3pm. The guided visit of the interior costs €9 and lasts forty minutes, the combined ticket with the twelve patios €14. Under-10s go in free.

Photo: Benjamin Smith, Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)
Plaza de la Corredera
Other✦ gem

Plaza de la Corredera

It is a Castilian plaza mayor that ended up in Andalusia, and it is the only one in the region: rectangular, closed on four sides, with arcades running all the way round. It has served as a bullring and a market, and today the bars under the arcades are where the people of Córdoba sit, not the groups. It is ten minutes from the Mezquita but off the tour route, and in the evening it is where the old town stops being a museum.

Photo: Benjamin Smith, Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)
Baños Califales
Museums✦ gem

Baños Califales

Ticket
€3

These are the caliph's baths, not just any hammam: they lie under the Campo Santo de los Mártires beside the Alcázar and were found underground in the 20th century. The ticket costs 3 € full and 1.50 € reduced. The vaults have star-shaped skylights that let light fall onto the steam, and the route follows the three rooms, cold, warm and hot, in the order they were used. It is a 30 minute visit, almost always without a queue, and it is what makes Umayyad Córdoba make sense.

Photo: Delegación de Cultura Ayuntamiento de Córdoba, Wikimedia Commons (CC BY 2.0)

The classics

Mezquita-Catedral
Monuments

Mezquita-Catedral

Ticket
€15, reduced €12

The ticket costs €15, reduced €12 for over-65s and students up to 26, €8 for children aged 10 to 14 and free under 10. But there is a slot almost nobody uses: Monday to Saturday, from 8.30 to 9.30am, entry is free, an hour before general opening, with the hall of columns nearly empty and the low light that is the best of the day. The bell tower is a separate €4 ticket, in time slots every half hour. The ticket office shuts and access stops thirty minutes before closing.

Photo: ktanaka, Wikimedia Commons (CC BY 3.0)
Roman Bridge and Calahorra Tower
Monuments

Roman Bridge and Calahorra Tower

The bridge is pedestrian and crossed in 5 minutes: the classic photograph of the Mezquita reflected in the Guadalquivir is taken from the far bank, not from the bridge. The Calahorra Tower stands at the southern end, that is on the side almost nobody comes from, and houses a museum on the coexistence of the three cultures. The moment is the hour before sunset, when the stone shifts from yellow to orange; at midday in summer the bridge is fully exposed and there is not a metre of shade.

Photo: Sara Camba Lopez, Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 3.0 es)
Monuments

Judería and Synagogue

Entry
free
Closed
Monday
Duration
10 min

The synagogue is one of three medieval ones left in Spain, entry is free and the visit takes 10 minutes: it is a single room, with Hebrew inscriptions in stucco along the walls, and it closes on Monday. It is not a mistake to expect little space: it is what it is, and that is why anyone arriving expecting a monument is thrown. The Judería around it is a maze of white lanes walked without a map; the northern part, towards Plaza de Maimónides, empties out while the stretch against the Mezquita stays full all day.

Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos
Monuments

Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos

Ticket
€5, reduced €2.50
Hours
8:45-15:15
Closed
Monday

It costs €5, reduced €2.50, and opens Tuesday to Sunday 8.45am-3.15pm: Mondays it is closed. The constraint that ruins the most afternoons is the summer one: from 16 June to 15 September it closes at 2.15pm, so at the height of summer it can only be visited in the morning. Booking online is required and payment is by card only, no cash at the desk. The terraced gardens with their pools are the part that earns the ticket, and at 9am they are the one cool place in the city.

Photo: Luca Volpi from Milan, Italy, Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 2.0)
Food

Salmorejo, rabo de toro and Montilla-Moriles wines

Salmorejo is not a thick gazpacho but a different thing: only tomato, bread, garlic and oil, no cucumber and no pepper, served cold with hard-boiled egg and jamón on top. Rabo de toro is oxtail braised for hours, a winter dish that turns up on tourist menus in summer anyway. The Montilla-Moriles wines are the local denomination and they are not sherry: in the old taverns the fino is ordered from the barrel, by the glass, and costs a fraction of a beer at a table in the centre.

Food

Flamenquín

It is a roll of pork loin wrapped around serrano ham, breaded and fried: heavy, and accordingly ordered as a single main rather than as one tapa among several. In the taverns there is a large version to split between two or three. It is a 20th-century dish, not an ancient recipe: anyone looking for it as 'Moorish cooking' has the wrong shelf. That is in the berenjenas con miel and the salmorejo.

Food

Berenjenas con miel

The aubergines are cut into thin batons, fried crisp and drizzled with miel de caña, which is not bee honey but sugar-cane syrup: darker, less sweet and slightly bitter. It is the most direct Moorish inheritance left on the table. Order it as a tapa to share at the start, alongside the salmorejo, and in serious places it arrives at once because it has to be eaten hot.

How to plan your days in Córdoba?

Three routes for different travel styles, built only from this dossier's verified places. Realistic pace: 2-3 stops a day.

First time

2 days

The landmark sights, at the right pace.

Day 1

  • Mezquita-Catedral

    The ticket costs €15, reduced €12 for over-65s and students up to 26, €8 for children aged 10 to 14 and free under 10. But there is a slot almost nobody uses: Monday to Saturday, from 8.30 to 9.30am, entry is free, an hour before general opening, with the hall of columns nearly empty and the low light that is the best of the day. The bell tower is a separate €4 ticket, in time slots every half hour. The ticket office shuts and access stops thirty minutes before closing.

  • Roman Bridge and Calahorra Tower

    The bridge is pedestrian and crossed in 5 minutes: the classic photograph of the Mezquita reflected in the Guadalquivir is taken from the far bank, not from the bridge. The Calahorra Tower stands at the southern end, that is on the side almost nobody comes from, and houses a museum on the coexistence of the three cultures. The moment is the hour before sunset, when the stone shifts from yellow to orange; at midday in summer the bridge is fully exposed and there is not a metre of shade.

  • Judería and Synagogue

    The synagogue is one of three medieval ones left in Spain, entry is free and the visit takes 10 minutes: it is a single room, with Hebrew inscriptions in stucco along the walls, and it closes on Monday. It is not a mistake to expect little space: it is what it is, and that is why anyone arriving expecting a monument is thrown. The Judería around it is a maze of white lanes walked without a map; the northern part, towards Plaza de Maimónides, empties out while the stretch against the Mezquita stays full all day.

Day 2

  • Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos

    It costs €5, reduced €2.50, and opens Tuesday to Sunday 8.45am-3.15pm: Mondays it is closed. The constraint that ruins the most afternoons is the summer one: from 16 June to 15 September it closes at 2.15pm, so at the height of summer it can only be visited in the morning. Booking online is required and payment is by card only, no cash at the desk. The terraced gardens with their pools are the part that earns the ticket, and at 9am they are the one cool place in the city.

  • Salmorejo, rabo de toro and Montilla-Moriles wines

    Salmorejo is not a thick gazpacho but a different thing: only tomato, bread, garlic and oil, no cucumber and no pepper, served cold with hard-boiled egg and jamón on top. Rabo de toro is oxtail braised for hours, a winter dish that turns up on tourist menus in summer anyway. The Montilla-Moriles wines are the local denomination and they are not sherry: in the old taverns the fino is ordered from the barrel, by the glass, and costs a fraction of a beer at a table in the centre.

  • Flamenquín

    It is a roll of pork loin wrapped around serrano ham, breaded and fried: heavy, and accordingly ordered as a single main rather than as one tapa among several. In the taverns there is a large version to split between two or three. It is a 20th-century dish, not an ancient recipe: anyone looking for it as 'Moorish cooking' has the wrong shelf. That is in the berenjenas con miel and the salmorejo.

Off the beaten path

2 days

Hidden gems away from the usual circuits.

Day 1

  • Calleja de las Flores and the patios✦ hidden gem

    The lane is photographed early in the morning, before it becomes single file: it is barely a metre wide and frames the Mezquita bell tower at the end. On the patios, the precision that matters: the festival is in May and lasts two weeks, but the courtyards open to the public are the ones entered in the competition, not every one visible from the street, and the queue at the most photographed is long. Outside May, the only place to see a dozen together is the Palacio de Viana.

  • Medina Azahara✦ hidden gem

    It is 8 km from the city and reached by shuttle bus or car: it is not a walk from the centre. The thing to know before booking: for EU citizens entry is free, for everyone else it is paid. The museum at the entrance comes before the ruins and cannot be skipped, because the shuttles leave from there. Allow at least 2 hours including the transfer, and it is an open archaeological site: in July and August do it at opening or not at all.

  • Palacio de Viana✦ hidden gem

    This is how to see the patios without waiting for May: twelve courtyards, each different, inside a palace north of the centre where almost nobody goes. It opens Tuesday to Saturday 10am-7pm and Sunday until 3pm, closed Mondays; in July and August the hours shorten to Tuesday-Sunday 9am-3pm. The guided visit of the interior costs €9 and lasts forty minutes, the combined ticket with the twelve patios €14. Under-10s go in free.

Day 2

  • Plaza de la Corredera✦ hidden gem

    It is a Castilian plaza mayor that ended up in Andalusia, and it is the only one in the region: rectangular, closed on four sides, with arcades running all the way round. It has served as a bullring and a market, and today the bars under the arcades are where the people of Córdoba sit, not the groups. It is ten minutes from the Mezquita but off the tour route, and in the evening it is where the old town stops being a museum.

  • Baños Califales✦ hidden gem

    These are the caliph's baths, not just any hammam: they lie under the Campo Santo de los Mártires beside the Alcázar and were found underground in the 20th century. The ticket costs 3 € full and 1.50 € reduced. The vaults have star-shaped skylights that let light fall onto the steam, and the route follows the three rooms, cold, warm and hot, in the order they were used. It is a 30 minute visit, almost always without a queue, and it is what makes Umayyad Córdoba make sense.

Food & markets

1 days

Eat and drink where locals actually go.

Day 1

  • Salmorejo, rabo de toro and Montilla-Moriles wines

    Salmorejo is not a thick gazpacho but a different thing: only tomato, bread, garlic and oil, no cucumber and no pepper, served cold with hard-boiled egg and jamón on top. Rabo de toro is oxtail braised for hours, a winter dish that turns up on tourist menus in summer anyway. The Montilla-Moriles wines are the local denomination and they are not sherry: in the old taverns the fino is ordered from the barrel, by the glass, and costs a fraction of a beer at a table in the centre.

  • Flamenquín

    It is a roll of pork loin wrapped around serrano ham, breaded and fried: heavy, and accordingly ordered as a single main rather than as one tapa among several. In the taverns there is a large version to split between two or three. It is a 20th-century dish, not an ancient recipe: anyone looking for it as 'Moorish cooking' has the wrong shelf. That is in the berenjenas con miel and the salmorejo.

  • Berenjenas con miel

    The aubergines are cut into thin batons, fried crisp and drizzled with miel de caña, which is not bee honey but sugar-cane syrup: darker, less sweet and slightly bitter. It is the most direct Moorish inheritance left on the table. Order it as a tapa to share at the start, alongside the salmorejo, and in serious places it arrives at once because it has to be eaten hot.

🧭

Build your itinerary

Tell us how many days you're staying and in which month: we'll compose an itinerary from this dossier's verified places, with notes about the period.

Your itinerary

1

Day 1

  • Mezquita-Catedral

    The ticket costs €15, reduced €12 for over-65s and students up to 26, €8 for children aged 10 to 14 and free under 10. But there is a slot almost nobody uses: Monday to Saturday, from 8.30 to 9.30am, entry is free, an hour before general opening, with the hall of columns nearly empty and the low light that is the best of the day. The bell tower is a separate €4 ticket, in time slots every half hour. The ticket office shuts and access stops thirty minutes before closing.

  • Roman Bridge and Calahorra Tower

    The bridge is pedestrian and crossed in 5 minutes: the classic photograph of the Mezquita reflected in the Guadalquivir is taken from the far bank, not from the bridge. The Calahorra Tower stands at the southern end, that is on the side almost nobody comes from, and houses a museum on the coexistence of the three cultures. The moment is the hour before sunset, when the stone shifts from yellow to orange; at midday in summer the bridge is fully exposed and there is not a metre of shade.

  • Salmorejo, rabo de toro and Montilla-Moriles wines

    Salmorejo is not a thick gazpacho but a different thing: only tomato, bread, garlic and oil, no cucumber and no pepper, served cold with hard-boiled egg and jamón on top. Rabo de toro is oxtail braised for hours, a winter dish that turns up on tourist menus in summer anyway. The Montilla-Moriles wines are the local denomination and they are not sherry: in the old taverns the fino is ordered from the barrel, by the glass, and costs a fraction of a beer at a table in the centre.

2

Day 2

  • Judería and Synagogue

    The synagogue is one of three medieval ones left in Spain, entry is free and the visit takes 10 minutes: it is a single room, with Hebrew inscriptions in stucco along the walls, and it closes on Monday. It is not a mistake to expect little space: it is what it is, and that is why anyone arriving expecting a monument is thrown. The Judería around it is a maze of white lanes walked without a map; the northern part, towards Plaza de Maimónides, empties out while the stretch against the Mezquita stays full all day.

  • Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos

    It costs €5, reduced €2.50, and opens Tuesday to Sunday 8.45am-3.15pm: Mondays it is closed. The constraint that ruins the most afternoons is the summer one: from 16 June to 15 September it closes at 2.15pm, so at the height of summer it can only be visited in the morning. Booking online is required and payment is by card only, no cash at the desk. The terraced gardens with their pools are the part that earns the ticket, and at 9am they are the one cool place in the city.

  • Flamenquín

    It is a roll of pork loin wrapped around serrano ham, breaded and fried: heavy, and accordingly ordered as a single main rather than as one tapa among several. In the taverns there is a large version to split between two or three. It is a 20th-century dish, not an ancient recipe: anyone looking for it as 'Moorish cooking' has the wrong shelf. That is in the berenjenas con miel and the salmorejo.

3

Day 3

  • Calleja de las Flores and the patios✦ hidden gem

    The lane is photographed early in the morning, before it becomes single file: it is barely a metre wide and frames the Mezquita bell tower at the end. On the patios, the precision that matters: the festival is in May and lasts two weeks, but the courtyards open to the public are the ones entered in the competition, not every one visible from the street, and the queue at the most photographed is long. Outside May, the only place to see a dozen together is the Palacio de Viana.

  • Medina Azahara✦ hidden gem

    It is 8 km from the city and reached by shuttle bus or car: it is not a walk from the centre. The thing to know before booking: for EU citizens entry is free, for everyone else it is paid. The museum at the entrance comes before the ruins and cannot be skipped, because the shuttles leave from there. Allow at least 2 hours including the transfer, and it is an open archaeological site: in July and August do it at opening or not at all.

  • Berenjenas con miel

    The aubergines are cut into thin batons, fried crisp and drizzled with miel de caña, which is not bee honey but sugar-cane syrup: darker, less sweet and slightly bitter. It is the most direct Moorish inheritance left on the table. Order it as a tapa to share at the start, alongside the salmorejo, and in serious places it arrives at once because it has to be eaten hot.

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Coming soon
The Roman Bridge over the Guadalquivir with the Mezquita-Catedral behind: the classic view of Córdoba's old town.
The Roman Bridge over the Guadalquivir with the Mezquita-Catedral behind: the classic view of Córdoba's old town.Photo: Jose María Ligero Loarte, Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)

What to know before going to Córdoba?

Recurring scams and local rules worth knowing before you arrive.

⚠ Scams to know

Visiting Córdoba in high summer without precautions

verified

Córdoba is one of the hottest cities in Europe: in July and August it regularly tops 40°C, with afternoons when walking outdoors is exhausting and risky.

How to avoid it: Prefer spring (April-May) or autumn; in summer use early morning and evening, drink plenty and seek the shade of the patios and the Alcázar gardens.

Source

Turning up at the Mezquita in unsuitable clothing

medium confidence

Entry requires shoulders and knees covered: those arriving in a vest or short shorts risk being refused entry, especially in high season.

How to avoid it: Bring a scarf or a light garment to cover shoulders and legs; also useful against the heat in the middle of the day.

Source

⚖ Laws & penalties

Dress code and visiting rules in the Mezquita-Catedral

low riskmedium confidence

As it's a place of worship, entry to the Mezquita-Catedral requires decorous dress (shoulders and knees covered) and respect for silence in the liturgical areas. It's not an administrative penalty, but staff can refuse entry.

Source

Drinking alcohol in the street (botellón) banned

medium riskmedium confidence

Andalusia's Law 7/2006 bans drinking alcohol in open public spaces, except authorized terraces and outdoor seating; it applies to residents and tourists, with administrative penalties varying by severity.

Source

No tourist tax in Córdoba

low riskverified

In 2026 there is no tourist tax in Andalusia, neither regional nor municipal: towns cannot introduce one on their own and the Junta de Andalucía repeated in May 2026 that it does not intend to create one. In Córdoba you therefore pay nothing extra on the room; be wary of sites that claim it has been introduced.

Source
A flower-decked patio during the May Fiesta de los Patios, UNESCO Intangible Heritage.
A flower-decked patio during the May Fiesta de los Patios, UNESCO Intangible Heritage.Photo: Elena.laps, Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 4.0)

What happens in Córdoba through the year?

Hover over a month on the timeline for details.

How much do you spend in Córdoba, and when to go?

Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
  • low55-85€per day
  • mid75-120€per day
  • high120-180€per day

When it works best, by type of trip

Patios and flowersMay

The Festival de los Patios turns the city into a garden and the weather is still pleasant: the finest period of all, but also the busiest and priciest.

Ideal weather for walkingApril, October

Mild temperatures for the Mezquita, the Judería and Medina Azahara, away from the stifling heat of the Andalusian summer.

Budget (with heat)July-August

Lower prices and a less crowded city than May, but extreme heat: visits concentrated in early morning and evening.

Rough estimate (lodging + meals + local transport), not a precise verified source.

✦

Did you know... In the 10th century Córdoba, capital of the Umayyad Caliphate, was one of the largest and most learned cities in the world, with libraries and public lighting when much of Europe was in the dark.

How to get to Córdoba and around?

No car neededThe old town (Mezquita, Judería) is a pedestrian labyrinth of narrow alleys where a car is useless and can't pass. Córdoba is great for a train trip: the AVE connects it in minutes to Seville and Malaga and in under two hours to Madrid.

From the AVE/Renfe station the centre is reachable on foot (about 20-25 minutes) or by urban bus and taxi. The monumental centre is walked entirely on foot; buses serve Medina Azahara (with a dedicated shuttle from Glorieta Cruz Roja). Aucorsa urban buses cost €1.30 per ride with no transfer, paid on board in cash or by contactless card, €0.72 with the Bono-Bus card, which gives a free transfer to another line within an hour; children aged 4 to 14 travel free with the tarjeta infantil, at least until 31 December 2026.

  • For the Mezquita there's a free-entry window early in the morning (generally Monday to Saturday, about 8:30-9:30am, without access to some parts): arrive very early as the slots fill up.
  • Respect the Mezquita's dress code: shoulders and knees covered, no vests or short shorts.
  • Visit the Mezquita right when it opens or in the late afternoon to avoid the groups; the Calleja de las Flores is best early in the morning.
  • In summer plan outdoor visits for early morning and evening: in the afternoon the heat in Córdoba is truly extreme.

Is Córdoba safe?

⚠ Areas to avoid

  • Córdoba is a calm, safe city, with no districts to avoid. The care goes more to the summer heat and the crowded alleys around the Mezquita, where the odd pickpocketing can happen.

Good to know

  • In summer heatstroke is the main risk: water, a hat and cool hours for outdoor visits.
  • Normal care with your belongings in the more touristy areas (Mezquita, Judería, Roman Bridge).
  • The single emergency number in Spain (and the EU): 112.
Source
✦

Did you know... The local signature dish is salmorejo: a cold tomato cream thicker than gazpacho, served with egg and ham, perfect against the scorching heat.

Frequently asked questions about Córdoba

Short answers drawn from the verified data of this dossier: details and sources are in the sections above.

How much does a day in Córdoba cost?

Season low (July-August (extreme heat), January-February): 55-85€ per day; Season mid (March-April, June, October-November): 75-120€ per day; Season high (May (patios festival)): 120-180€ per day.

When to go to Córdoba?

Patios and flowers: May. The Festival de los Patios turns the city into a garden and the weather is still pleasant: the finest period of all, but also the busiest and priciest. Ideal weather for walking: April, October. Mild temperatures for the Mezquita, the Judería and Medina Azahara, away from the stifling heat of the Andalusian summer. Budget (with heat): July-August. Lower prices and a less crowded city than May, but extreme heat: visits concentrated in early morning and evening.

Is Córdoba safe?

Córdoba is a calm, safe city, with no districts to avoid. The care goes more to the summer heat and the crowded alleys around the Mezquita, where the odd pickpocketing can happen. In summer heatstroke is the main risk: water, a hat and cool hours for outdoor visits.

Do you need a car in Córdoba?

No. The old town (Mezquita, Judería) is a pedestrian labyrinth of narrow alleys where a car is useless and can't pass. Córdoba is great for a train trip: the AVE connects it in minutes to Seville and Malaga and in under two hours to Madrid.

How do you get to Córdoba?

From the AVE/Renfe station the centre is reachable on foot (about 20-25 minutes) or by urban bus and taxi. The monumental centre is walked entirely on foot; buses serve Medina Azahara (with a dedicated shuttle from Glorieta Cruz Roja). Aucorsa urban buses cost €1.30 per ride with no transfer, paid on board in cash or by contactless card, €0.72 with the Bono-Bus card, which gives a free transfer to another line within an hour; children aged 4 to 14 travel free with the tarjeta infantil, at least until 31 December 2026.

Which hidden gems to see in Córdoba, off the guidebooks?

Calleja de las Flores and the patios, Medina Azahara, Palacio de Viana, Plaza de la Corredera, Baños Califales.

Which scams to avoid in Córdoba?

Visiting Córdoba in high summer without precautions; Turning up at the Mezquita in unsuitable clothing.

Sources

Every source below was opened and read, not just cited. Entries that didn't hold up were downgraded to "low confidence" or dropped, not presented as certain.

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