First time
2 daysThe landmark sights, at the right pace.
Day 1
Piazza Duomo and the temple-cathedral
One of Italy's most beautiful Baroque squares, an oval of white stone that glows golden in the evening. The Cathedral is one of a kind: a Baroque cathedral built around the Doric temple of Athena, with the 5th-century BC Greek columns still standing among the aisles.
Greek Theatre and Neapolis Archaeological Park
One of the largest Greek theatres of the ancient world, carved entirely into the rock, with views to the sea. The park also holds the Ear of Dionysius — the cave with legendary acoustics — and the latomie quarries where Athenian prisoners laboured. Tickets ~€14-17 depending on exhibitions; take the first slot to beat heat and cruise groups.
Maniace Castle
Frederick II's Swabian fortress on Ortigia's furthest point, surrounded by sea on three sides: a Gothic hypostyle hall and open views over the great harbour. The spot where the island ends and the Mediterranean begins.
Day 2
Baroque Noto (day trip)
The capital of Val di Noto Baroque, a UNESCO site, half an hour by train or car: the golden stage-set of corso Vittorio Emanuele at sunset is among Sicily's most celebrated views. In May the Infiorata carpets via Nicolaci with petals.
Ortigia, the island old town
One kilometre of island concentrating 2,700 years of history: Catalan alleys, Baroque courtyards, workshops and the sea appearing at the end of every street. You explore it only on foot, getting lost: that's the correct way to use it.
Aretusa Spring
The freshwater spring a few metres from the sea where, according to myth, the nymph Arethusa escaped Alpheus: today it hosts wild papyrus, fish and ducks, with the seafront promenade circling it. At sunset it's the most romantic spot on the island.


