Azkuna Zentroa (Alhóndiga)
A municipal wine warehouse from 1909, gutted and reinvented by Philippe Starck: on the ground floor is an atrium you can walk through for free, held up by 43 columns all different from each other, each quoting an architectural style or a civilisation. Above is the glass-bottomed pool, and from below you watch the swimmers. Inside are a cinema, a library and a gym: it is a civic centre used by locals, not a museum.

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